A remote archipelago in the middle of the ocean, thousands of kilometers from the mainland, characterized by volcanic landscapes, lush green vegetation, wild waterfalls and rugged rocky coasts. No, we are not talking about Hawaii, but about the Azores, an archipelago of nine small islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, which rise out of the deep blue of the Atlantic as the peaks of huge underwater mountains.

This mystical island chain, which officially belongs to Portugal and can be reached from there in around two hours by plane, could easily pass for a secret hideaway for adventurers and nature lovers.

As you approach Ponta Delgada airport, your gaze is immediately drawn to green hills, crater lakes and a coastline so rugged and beautiful that you could almost mistake it for a movie set. The Azores are no ordinary islands – they are a wild mosaic of volcanic peaks, untamed nature, hot springs and deep blue lakes.

But the Azores are not just for nature lovers. For the adventurous, there are hikes through ancient laurel forests reminiscent of secret fairytale worlds. For divers, there are big fish encounters, underwater caves and shipwrecks to explore, while surfers can ride perfect waves on the beaches of Santa Maria. Everyone will find their own personal adventure here – be it paragliding over the green hills or relaxing in one of the many hot springs.

And then there are the whales. The Azores are a paradise for whale watching. Imagine sitting in a small boat bobbing on the waves of the Atlantic and suddenly a gigantic sperm whale appears right next to you. A majestic creature, so close that you can hear its huge breaths. It’s an experience that takes your breath away and fills you with awe at the same time.

The Map of the Azores

The island of São Miguel: the ideal starting point for a trip to the Azores

We start our trip on the island of São Miguel, where the capital Ponta Delgada and one of the international airports are located. For individual exploration of the island, we recommend to get a rental car, which can be picked up directly at the airport from several international and local providers. The local SATA Azores Airlines and the Portuguese TAP connect the Portuguese mainland (Lisbon & Porto) with the islands several times a day, and there are also direct flights to Europe or the USA several times a week.

With a dimension of approx. 65 x 15 km, São Miguel is the largest island in the archipelago and yet still easy to manage. You won’t find any large hotel complexes on the Azores, but the many small apartments and vacation homes, some of which are rustic and built in the local style, are very suitable as accommodation. We opt for apartments in the central part of the island on the south coast, so we can explore the eastern and western parts of the island as a day trip.

Exploring the island

You should plan at least two days to explore the island in a rental car. If longer hiking tours or dives are part of the program, you will need a little more time. Roadtrip durch den westlichen Insel-Teil: Sete Cidades und die schroffe Westküste.

We start our island tour with a road trip through the western part of the island and set off early in the morning towards Sete Cidades, a huge volcanic caldera that has filled with water over thousands of years and is now one of the highlights of São Miguel thanks to its spectacular viewpoints. As you approach, countless hydrangeas line the roadsides, making the island look like a colorful garden. From the parking lot at Lagoa do Canário, the famous Miradouro da Grota do Inferno viewpoint is just a 30-minute walk away. We make another stop at the abandoned hotel ruins at Miradouro da Vista do Rei, where you can explore the hotel ruins on your own and enjoy the view of the caldera and the south coast. Our trip continues past the historic church in the village of Sete Cidades to the rugged cliffs at the western end of the island. Along the coast of the Azores, you will often come across small whale-watching stations, formerly used for the whaling industry and now used for tourism. As there are rarely any sandy beaches on the Azores, it is a good idea to cool off in one of the natural swimming pools dotted along the rocky coast. In the evening, we round off the day in one of the many restaurants in the capital Ponta Delaga.

Sete Cidades and São Miguel’s steep west coast

The east of São Miguel: waterfalls, hot springs, cliffs and the only tea plantation in Europe

The next day, we also set off quite early towards the eastern part of the island. The first stop should be a boat trip to the island of Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo, but we have to skip this due to long waiting times at the ticket counter. Our trip now takes us directly to the village of Furnas, known for its hot, still active sulphur springs. The traditional dish served there is “Cozido à portuguesa”, a meat, rice and vegetable dish cooked in a hole in the ground using volcanic heat. We continue to the eastern cape of the island, the Farol do Arnel lighthouse. Here you can admire the green, steep east coast of the island. In addition to several viewpoints, there is also the option of descending to the sea from the lighthouse via a very steep road (we strongly advise against driving on this road).

Once on the north side, visit the Gorreana Tea Plantation, the only tea plantation in Europe. The plantation and the production halls are accessible free of charge and a small museum explains the history of tea production in the Azores. In the associated tea store, you can buy a few packs of Azorean tea as a souvenir. On the north coast in the central part of the island, there is also the chance to bathe in the hot springs of Caldeira Velha or in the refreshing mountain water of the Salto do Cabrito waterfall.

On the way back to the south side of the island, you will pass the numerous pineapple greenhouses near Ponta Delgada. Although the local pineapple is not cheap, it can be bought in supermarkets all over the Azores and impresses with its juicy and sweet taste. In the late afternoon, there is a short hike to the Quadro Fábricas da Luz, a former hydroelectric power station on a small stream with waterfalls, nestled in a beautifully overgrown valley with wild strawberries and wild mint. At the end of the approx. 60-minute mini-hike, a cool refreshment awaits you on one of the few black lava sand beaches. The island of São Miguel is the perfect place to get a first impression of the archipelago. You should plan at least 2-3 days to explore São Miguel’s variety of bizarre volcanic landscapes, lush green vegetation, sleepy villages, hot springs and hidden waterfalls.

Highlights of the eastern part of São Miguel: Hot sulphur springs near Furnas, Gorreana tea plantation, waterfalls, the volcanic island „Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo“

The island of Pico – the “summit” of Portugal

The island of Pico – meaning “peak” – lives up to its name. The image of the island is dominated by the Pico volcano, at 2,350 m the highest mountain in Portugal and also one of the most popular sights. The island of Pico can be reached by plane several times a day in just 50 minutes from São Miguel.

With an extension of approx. 45 x 15 km, the island can easily be circumnavigated in one day. Pico is characterized by its volcanic landscape. Rugged cliffs offer plenty of natural swimming pools, lava caves invite you to explore and the mineral-rich basalt rock provides the perfect soil for wine growing, which has been taking place here since the 15th century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Until 1987, the island of Pico was considered the center of whaling in the Azores. While up to 200 sperm whales were caught every year back then, Pico is now one of the most popular islands for whale and dolphin watching tours. The former whaling and processing factory in São Roque do Pico, now converted into a museum, is a grim reminder of the whaling era. While sperm whales and dolphins can be encountered almost all year round, other whale species vary depending on the season.

Panorama of the island of Pico with a view of the town of Madalena

Highlights of Pico island: Lava caves, former whaling factories, natural swimming pools on the volcanic rocky coast

Climbing the Pico volcano

But what would a trip to Pico be without climbing the island’s landmark: the Montanha do Pico. The ascent can be planned in one day or with an overnight stay in tents on the summit. From the ranger station to the summit, there are approx. 1,200 meters of altitude to overcome, but this proves to be quite challenging. With an average gradient of around 25-30%, the paths lead over loose lava scree and uneven rock surfaces. Once you have climbed the last 200 meters and reached the summit at 2,351 m, you are treated to a fabulous view over the entire western region of the Azores. If visibility is good, you can easily make out the islands of Faial and São Jorge. Due to the altitude, it is important to note that you should not climb Pico immediately after a dive. The effect of climbing the mountain is comparable to that of a flight.

Aerial panorama of „Montanha do Pico“

View from the Pico volcano towards Faial

The island of Faial, just a stone’s throw away from Pico

From the port of of Madalena on the island of Pico, you can reach the town of Horta on the neighboring island of Faial in around 30 minutes on one of the regular ferries. As a centrally located stop on various regattas, Horta has made a name for itself among sailors all over the world. The “Peter Café Sport” is located right next to the marina and has become an institution for all sailors and yachtsmen. From Horta, you can easily explore the island of Faial on a day trip in a rental car. The ruins of the Igreja de São Mateus church and the former Farol da Ribeirinha lighthouse bear witness to the island’s earthquake-ridden past. Another highlight of the volcanic history is the Capelinhos volcano in the far west of the island. During the eruption in 1957, the island of Faial grew about 1 km to the west due to land uplift. Today, the new part of the island can be viewed from spectacular view points. In the central part of the island is the volcanic caldera, 1 km in diameter, which is also the highest point on the island. As on all the other islands of the Azores, there are also plenty of natural swimming pools on Faial in the rugged volcanic rock of the cliffs for cooling off in between.

Faial island spots: Ruin of the former lighthouse „Farol da Ribeirinha“, Capelinhos volcano, marina of Horta with a view of the Pico volcano

Diving in Pico and Faial

Due to its remote location in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores offer a great variety of big fish and oceanic sea dwellers. Especially the islands of Pico and Faial are famous for diving with blue sharks, which normally stay in deep sea. Provided that weather conditions allowing a diving trip out to the blue ocean, the chance to encounter blue sharks is very high. Sometimes, even mako sharks are passing by.

Another unique diving spot is Princess Alice Bank, a submarine mountain in the open Atlantic, which is a 3,5 hours boat ride away from Pico. There you have high chances to see mobula rays and sometimes even whalesharks and other big pelagics. Unfortunately, during our trip wind and waves were to strong to visit this dive site.

Along the coastline, dive sites are more defined by volcanic rock formations. Smaller fish and some schools, like barracudas, are typical here. During the boat rides, you can see sometimes even whales or dolphins passing by. On one of our boat trip, we even saw a Portuguese man o’ war jellyfish floating on the surface.

Typical submarine life of Pico and Faial island: rugged volcanic landscapes and big fish encountes

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Conclusion

The Azores offer a perfect mix of adventure and relaxation. Whether hiking through the surreal volcanic landscapes, exploring remote villages, diving into the spectacular underwater world or swimming in one of the many natural rock pools – each island has its very own charm and character. The wild nature above and below the surface of the water and the still rather moderate tourism make the Azores a real Mecca for outdoor fans. Volcanoes, lush green vegetation, waterfalls, deep-sea adventures…. the Azores share many characteristics with Hawaii, but for us Europeans they are only a fraction of the distance away. So this will certainly not be our last trip to the Azores!